AUTUMN IN THE SOUTHERN ALPS | Ben Ohau, Twizel, Lake Tekapo, Arrowtown

This was my first visit to the Central Otago and Canterbury regions in the autumn and WOW, what a treat for the senses! I couldn’t quite list all of the places we visited in the title of this blog post, but with a week off work and a flexible itinerary, there were plenty of opportunities to delve deeper into the regions’ less well-known spots. Since we wanted to explore more than just Mount Cook National Park, we based ourselves between Twizel and Ben Ohau, within a 45 minute drive to all the places we visited in the Mackenzie lakes district.

With winter around the corner, we sought out accomodation with cozy cabin vibes, and found two cute options to satisfy most travellers out there. High Country Cabin has a more rural feel, with the Ben Ohau range as its backdrop. There is a small section of unsealed road, grazing sheep, and quietness that I haven’t experienced in a long time! The cabin can sleep 5, has an upstairs loft, modern bathroom, wood burner, gas stove and wifi, and is a 15 minute drive to Twizel for access to supermarkets, petrol stations and restaurants. It is a hit with Instagram enthusiasts due to its picturesque surroundings and interior design choices, and can be found at the High Country Cabin website and booked via Airbnb.

The Schist Cabin is set in the outskirts of Twizel and offers a more modern take on cabin life. The new 2 bedroom cabin sleeps 4, has a wood burner, heat pump, modern bathroom, 2 queen beds, electric kitchen appliances including a microwave and toaster, TV and wifi. It is exceptionally well priced and can be booked via Twizel Getaways or Airbnb.

Lake Tekapo and Mount John Observatory

After spending the morning hunkered down in the Schist Cabin, we ventured up to Mount John Observatory for elevated views of Lake Tekapo and Lake Alexandrina. The Astro Cafe provided us with a hot drink and some shelter against the gale force winds on the day that we visited, and after waiting patiently for an hour, the sun began to peek through the rain clouds. On a sunnier day, the colour of Lake Tekapo is a mind blowing bright turquoise!

Lake Pukaki and Mount Cook National Park

Perhaps the crowning jewel of the region, most visitors will spend at least an afternoon wandering the various walking tracks at Mount Cook National Park. The drive to the park’s entrance alone is an adventure, with multiple pullouts on the side of the road to capture Lake Pukaki and Aoraki. During the summer months, a visit to the NZ Alpine Lavender farm is a must. We took on both the Mueller Hut and Hooker Valley Tracks this visit, but there are plenty of awesome smaller walks if you are short on time, like the Kea Point and Tasman Lake tracks. Click here for a brochure of the walking tracks, and here for my blog post on the Sealy Tarns – Mueller Hut and Hooker Valley Tracks.

Lake Ruataniwha

As you drive between Lake Pukaki, Twizel and Lake Ohau, you will surely pass by the shores of Lake Ruataniwha and its various off shoots including the Ohau River, Wairepo Arm and Kellands Pond. All as picturesque as Ruataniwha itself, the tree-lined roads and bodies of water highlight the vibrant autumn colours at this time of year.

Lake and Ben Ohau

With our accomodation based near the Ben Ohau range, we took the opportunity to explore the eastern side of Lake Ohau towards Hopkins Valley, and hike part of the Greta Track, weather and time permitting. What we didn’t expect was to encounter a gang of free range cows as we started from the south carpark walking anti clockwise. They got uncomfortably close as we tried to follow the track up Ben Ohau, and eventually cut us off. Since this is a loop track, we headed to the north carpark instead and walked for about an hour to take in elevated views of Lake Ohau.

For those that manage to reach the Ben Ohau Summit, you will be able to see the southern shore of Lake Ohau, Ohau River, Ohau Canal and Lake Ruataniwha in the distance. There is also the option to drive to Lake Ohau’s south shore and Alpine Village, and enjoy views from the hill at Ohau Snow Fields in the winter time ⛷

Arrowtown, Bannockburn and Queenstown

Having flown into Queenstown Airport before heading to the Mackenzie district, I was able to take advantage of the stunning autumn foliage in Central Otago, most evident around Arrowtown. Whether you pop by briefly for a nibble, shop and stroll, or spend some time admiring the colours on a half day walk (e.g. Sawpit Gully Track), the views can’t be beat in this picturesque town.

Further down the road is Lake Hayes, lined with gorgeous golden trees and various guest houses and retreats. It is particularly beautiful on a calm and sunny morning, with plenty of benches and picnic tables to take in the views from, or complete the lakeside track and work up an appetite for brunch 🙂

The drive to Mackenzie will take you alongside the Kawarau River, all the way to Bannockburn where it joins the Clutha River and Lake Dunstan. Bannockburn itself is home to many vineyards and cellar doors that you can pop into for a tasting, as well as the Sluicings Historic Reserve where you can catch a glimpse of the ‘wild west’ right in New Zealand! The rocky landscape features the remains of the gold mining era and can be explored on both foot and bike.

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Some notable food mentions from this trip include the Lakestone Lodge restaurant, situated on the shores of Lake Pukaki. The ambience and customer service is top notch, with opportunities to enjoy drinks by an outdoor fire and star and moon gaze on a clear night through the lodge’s telescope with guidance from the owner. The evening is topped off with a 3 course meal that begins at 7pm. Ring to book ahead as dining spots are limited and usually reserved for lodge guests ($90pp). If you are looking for a morning coffee or something more substantial, Shawtys Cafe Restaurant & Bar in Twizel is a local favourite and serves delicious cabinet and menu items. Similarly, if you are visiting Tekapo, be sure to stop by The Greedy Cow for excellent coffee and food. Heading back towards Queenstown is Akarua Wines & Kitchen By Artisan, a stones throw away from Arrowtown. This restaurant is set in a cute cottage and open garden, and serves beautiful dishes for breakfast and lunch (hands down the best french toast I have ever eaten!) Bookings are recommended especially in the weekends. Another popular Arrowtown institution is La Rumbla, known for their tasty tapas and cocktails. The restaurants’ entrance is tucked away on one of the main streets, and exudes a romantic, inner-city bar vibe. Bookings are essential.