TUATAPERE HUMP RIDGE TRACK | FIORDLAND, NZ

Recently announced as the eleventh, New Zealand ‘Great Walks’ trail to be, the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track spans 61km across 2 nights and 3 days, showcasing the best of southern Fiordland.

Being privately owned and operating through a partnership between the Tuatapere community and DOC, this track offers amenities and heli-hiking options that most DOC trails do not, so it is a great option for first time, multi-day hikers, easing into the tramping realm. Okaka Lodge and Port Craig Village both offer private rooms and hot showers at an extra cost (linen and towels included), whilst all trampers are treated to freshly cooked porridge in the mornings, tea, coffee, drinking water, cutlery, crockery, pots and pans, sleeping bags, liners, pillows and blankets. The highlight however, is the pantry bar, serving up beer, wine and gin, in addition to snacks and Back Country meals for purchase. View the menu here.

We opted to do the Freedom Walk with a private room, where I can vouch for the incredibly comfortable king beds, as opposed to the heli-hiking and fully guided options. The lodges also have flushing toilets and lights in all areas, but do watch your step on the surrounding boardwalks in the dark. Biting sandflies are in no short supply in Fiordland so either layer up or bring insect repellant!

Day 1

The first half of the 7-9 hour day winds through undulating forest and beach, covering 14.5km and multiple swing bridges before the final climb to the sub-alpine zone of the Hump Ridge. Just beyond the rest stop at 14.5km, there is a billy can to top up your water supply via the fast flowing river below at Water Bridge, followed by a steep trudge up to Stag Point.

Once you reach the ridge with a reassuring glimpse of Okaka Lodge in the distance, the final hour is a breath of fresh air, full of exquisite mountain views that continue beyond the lodge on the scenic Loop Track.

Being the first handful of people to arrive at Okaka Lodge, we were in luck as the ‘rich people’ from the previous day left almost an entire carrot cake up for grabs! We settled in for the evening, with a briefing on what to expect on Day 2 from lodge manager Anthony, and went to bed hoping the clouds would clear for sunrise the following morning.

Day 2

Despite tired legs from Day 1’s climb, I sprang upright as the alarm went off at 6am to peek outside the window and voilà! The start of a stunning sunrise staring back at me. The climb back up to the summit was a quick one this time, and we were treated to perfectly still tarns, a lake of cloud beneath us, and warm, windless conditions.

With another 7-9 hour day ahead of us, we set off along the sub-alpine hump ridge (that reminded me of Hong Kong’s Dragons Back), before dipping into the goblin forest for a steep descent to Edwin Burn Viaduct and the old tram line. Both the descent and tram line can be muddy in spots, so watch your step until the DOC upgrades are completed in 2022. The final 7km along the tram line can be pretty bleak, but you will arrive at Port Craig Lodge soon enough to put your legs up!

Day 3

The first half of Day 3 wanders through beech forest until you emerge onto the coastline, passing by Breakneck Creek and Blowholes Beach. From Flat Creek onwards, you will be retracing your steps from Day 1 past Track Burn, along Bluecliffs Beach, and through native bush to Rarakau Car Park. With our minds set on a post-tramp-celebratory-KFC-feed, we motored on and completed Day 3 in under 5.5 hours, thoroughly pooped and glad it was all over!

The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track begins at Rarakau Car Park, a 20-minute drive from its office in Tuatapere, which in turn is 1 hour west of Invercargill. The car park is privately owned with a $5 fee per car to be paid to the honesty box. Tuatapere is also well known for its sausages that you can purchase from Highway 99 Cafe and Bar in town, or try them out during the tramp at Okaka Lodge and Port Craig Village. Note: the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track office opens at 7.30am daily where you need to check in to grab your maps, track information, and passes prior to commencing the hike.

Without further ado, take a look at the video from this trip below, and here’s to another one of Fiordland’s finest tracks, done and dusted! 💪🏻🍻